西藏之行:监控,原来如此亲密
文/ Autumn Yu
"这个不能说,因为前台有监控。"
那个晚上,身在青海,我与两位藏人正讨论藏族文化,谈及藏人转山仪式。转山简单而言就是行山,藏人深信轮迴之说,转山仪式能够减少今生罪债,期望来生能够再成人。不过,由于中国政府深怕藏独,藏人一般是得不到签证前往阿里等地转山,但荒谬的是旅客要取得签证却是极其简单。
监控的不止于行为,更是心思。当我问他们对于藏人不能到西藏所属的地域转山有何感受,他们的回答是:“这个不说。”和“这个不能说,因为前台有监控。”随手指向吧台那边。除了声音监控,网络监控可说是“家传户晓”,原来那个监控仪器是光明正大放在电脑旁,约一部旧式录影机的大小,所有人知道监控在进行,同时,所有人对监控无可奈何。
在西藏拉萨,我与一位四川艺术家和他的女朋友聊天。对于六四,他们所知不多,只靠翻墙才略知一二;他们所不晓得的就更多,刘晓波得了诺贝尔和平奬﹐他们不知道;刘霞是谁, 他们不知道;谭作人至今情况, 他们不知道;被自杀的李旺阳更从未听闻。尽管如此,他们其实知道部份,他们知道腾讯、微博等与政权千丝万缕的关系,“我不明白为什么下载一个程式,我要给予对方追纵个人位置的权限。”女友人曾在马来西亚留学,对于监控的态度显然与在中国土生土长的四川艺术家很不一样,离开之前,她千叮万嘱我要以书信联系,她不想成为无知的人。
跟据国家资料 ,居住在西藏的藏人总人口约三百万人(当中不包括青海、四川、甘肃、云南、海外等定居的藏人),其中,与美国人结婚的就仅有12人,我遇上了其中一个,由于她与美国人结婚,所以监控更为严重。她曾经到过香港旅游,“当我看着法轮功能够举着‘天灭大共’的牌站在街上,我很震撼。我站着看,但我的丈夫要我走,一旦被别人拍照就麻烦了。”,原来这是一个站在街上也没有自由的国家。在此,不要误会藏人能够在其他国家自出自入,只是因为她嫁了给外国人,她多次申请希望父母可以到美国旅游,但不获批准,在国家传媒机器宣传下,她的双亲一直认为美国在打仗,居住环境很危险。也曾听说有藏族朋友的亲人取得护照,但在机场给安检剪掉了,原因是十八大(中国共产党第十八次全国代表大会)。
面对种种监控、不合理,藏人只能默默忍受,司机淡然道出不能转山的遗憾,不带半点恨意。旅游期间,我知道新疆发生袭击事件,我没有担心,因为西藏是不一样,藏人争取权 益的方式是自焚,牺牲自己来警惕世人,所以国家不能把藏人自焚扣上恐怖袭击的帽子,他们所能做的就是每三十步放一个警卫厅,警卫、公安之多,绝对是拉萨一个奇景。
在内地生活了三个星期,我发现我更爱香港这片土地,自由在我们看来是理所当然,言论可以百花齐放。在拉萨,认识了一个在重庆工作、计划考律师牌照并且有心成为维权律师的朋友,她知道我一直在讨论敏感话题,由六四、人权谈到一党专政,她不时打电话来提醒我,担心我回不了香港,我知道……我生于香港,起码,至今我还拥有免于恐惧的自由。
本文经授权转载自香港独立媒体
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